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Secret Drinker reviews the Shipwright’s Arms pub at Oare Marshes, near Faversham

Walking into the Shipwright’s Arms on Hollowshore was like taking a step back in time, not least because the first story I was told happened more than 20 years ago.

But if you’re going to trek out to this gem on Oare Marshes, near Faversham, you first need to get yourself one of the following: A sturdy pair of walking boots; A 4x4 vehicle (because unlike the Chelsea tractor mums, you’ll put your monster truck to good use getting here).

It’s certainly well off the beaten track, but the Shipwright’s Arms at Hollowshore in Faversham is well worth the effort
It’s certainly well off the beaten track, but the Shipwright’s Arms at Hollowshore in Faversham is well worth the effort

Having mentioned the perils of the water-filled potholes in the lane, the woman hugging the pub’s upright radiator informed me: “That’s nothing, you should have seen it in 2003, hundreds of our rabbits drowned in a day and we were closed for nine weeks”.

To be fair, I’d already seen the sign reading ‘We don’t have wi-fi, we have conversation’ and each member of bar staff, whenever they weren’t serving, took turns at huddling round the radiator and waxing lyrical.

I’d already seen a Goachers Brewery van delivering when I tried to visit previously (sadly it was closed) so spotting the same brewery’s beer towels on the bar I took seconds to select a pint of 3.8% Shipwrecked. Mind you, with five other cask ales available I was spoilt for choice.

There are a number of interesting choices available on tap but I was far more interested in the cask ales available
There are a number of interesting choices available on tap but I was far more interested in the cask ales available
It’s as rustic, if not as rough and ready outside as it is inside
It’s as rustic, if not as rough and ready outside as it is inside
These nautical pennants were decorating the ceilings in a number of rooms
These nautical pennants were decorating the ceilings in a number of rooms

Despite my protestations, the Apprentice chose a Curious Brew and Mrs SD stuck to type with a large Sauvignon Blanc.

Derek had just put another log on the fire at the front of the pub (he has a strict rule – one log, per customer, per drink) so we huddled around that table. There were also two wing chairs but these had already been nabbed by a couple of hairy readers – he was all mod con with a Kindle, while she played it old school, no sign of conversation here.

The wood store next to us was interesting as it contained a whole series of specially ‘logged’ messages from previous visitors who must have been equipped with felt pens.

There’s a good selection of keg beers/lagers/ciders but it’s the list of cask ales which really attracts people to this pub on the Hollowshore
There’s a good selection of keg beers/lagers/ciders but it’s the list of cask ales which really attracts people to this pub on the Hollowshore
Keeping a log of who visits The Shipwright’s – this firewood store at the front was full of colourful messages
Keeping a log of who visits The Shipwright’s – this firewood store at the front was full of colourful messages

Everything at the Shipwrights is completely rough and ready and if you don’t appreciate your pub very much slanted to the shabby, rather than the chic, this is not one for you.

The wind was whistling through the single-paned window, but pubs built in 1700 don’t come double-glazed glazed and I think it’s all part of the charm, particularly as you can hear the ropes jangling on the yacht masts outside.

I considered it equally charming when we ordered a portion of chips and the barmaid ran outside to the freezer for the bag, returning shaking with the cold to announce she was frostier than the chips and had passed a brass monkey on the way.

Mind you, if you really want to experience artic-style cold then try braving the outside lavvy – even metal monkeys avoid this one.

The outside lavvy was chilly in the extreme – on the day we were in only a few brave souls visited this one
The outside lavvy was chilly in the extreme – on the day we were in only a few brave souls visited this one
There was a large room off to the left of the pub and it was just about warm enough for most coats to come off.
There was a large room off to the left of the pub and it was just about warm enough for most coats to come off.
One of several real fires, a fellow by the name of Derek made sure they were kept supplied with enough logs.
One of several real fires, a fellow by the name of Derek made sure they were kept supplied with enough logs.

On the subject of food, I’d already spotted the pub’s introduction to its menu so, to be fair, I knew what to expect. It mainly tells you what it isn’t and doesn’t do, before giving you a list of what you can have: “We do NOT have a restaurant, it’s a ‘real ale’ pub serving ‘pub grub’ at certain times. “No reservations, we do NOT serve Sunday roasts and sorry we do NOT serve hot drinks.”

Personally, I’m delighted they made it crystal clear, I was equally delighted by the pub grub we were served and was ecstatic I wasn’t going to have to queue up behind some dipstick at the bar ordering a fluffy, super-eco, energised coffee nonsense.

I had a tuna mayo sandwich, which came with cheese and onion crisps, the Apprentice had soup (including well-done croutons) and a roll and Mrs SD loved her fish finger sandwich, again with C&O crisps. The bread was fresh and chunky, the chips hot and crispy and the soup was darned tasty – job done.

Unable to resist a traditional fish finger sandwich, Mrs SD also ordered a portion of chips (though I can report she did share for once!)
Unable to resist a traditional fish finger sandwich, Mrs SD also ordered a portion of chips (though I can report she did share for once!)
Pub of the Year in 2006 – this certificate takes pride of place on the toilet wall
Pub of the Year in 2006 – this certificate takes pride of place on the toilet wall
This couple had already bagged the two wing chairs closest to the fire and were perfectly happy with their own reading material – one going traditional, the other electronic
This couple had already bagged the two wing chairs closest to the fire and were perfectly happy with their own reading material – one going traditional, the other electronic

Of course, there is no darts, no pool, no screens, no music – this is a pub for drinking and talking, and we did. However, I did notice they do host live music and I’d certainly return for that.

We’d arrived shortly after opening time and were joined by a fair few people as Sunday lunchtime progressed, most had walked but some had risked the suspension on their family saloon.

All love this place and although I’d had requests from several locals to visit, I suspect there will be others who won’t thank me for sharing details of their favourite hideaway haunt and encouraging others to try it.

The SD Apprentice selected soup and a roll for £7 – there were a few varieties on offer and he went for potato and leek, complete with croutons
The SD Apprentice selected soup and a roll for £7 – there were a few varieties on offer and he went for potato and leek, complete with croutons
Certainly not a pub for would-be foodies, this one doesn’t claim to do anything other than honest pub grub
Certainly not a pub for would-be foodies, this one doesn’t claim to do anything other than honest pub grub
Made from thick, fresh white bread, I chose a tuna mayo sandwich – it was delivered with cheese and onion crisps
Made from thick, fresh white bread, I chose a tuna mayo sandwich – it was delivered with cheese and onion crisps

But, that is exactly what I must do – this is a real ‘real ale’ pub and you must experience it first hand, in all its glory and tattiness, to appreciate just how wonderful it is.

Oh, I forgot to mention the indoor multi-sex toilet with a sliding door at the end of a short, tight-squeeze corridor. Clean and fresh but as quirky as everything else, it had a sign claiming Herne Bay is the healthiest place in England and a paper plate covering a porthole-style window, one corner of which had been pulled open so someone could spy into the garden.

Get your walking boots out or check your car’s tyres and get yourself along to try this one.

Full of fascinating unique items, the pub has some great photos. These, over the top of the log store, show the devastating flood of 2003.
Full of fascinating unique items, the pub has some great photos. These, over the top of the log store, show the devastating flood of 2003.
The fires may have been alight but it was still chilly and members of staff took it in turns to hug the upright radiator
The fires may have been alight but it was still chilly and members of staff took it in turns to hug the upright radiator
Dating back to 1700 it’s not surprising the windows aren’t double glazed. Like everything else here they could be described as ‘maintained in their original state’.
Dating back to 1700 it’s not surprising the windows aren’t double glazed. Like everything else here they could be described as ‘maintained in their original state’.

SHIPWRIGHT’S ARMS, HOLLOWSHORE, FAVERSHAM ME13 7TU

Decor: Incredible, you know how some pubs have manufactured, reproduced knick-knacks, well not here – this is all authentic, gloriously aged and unashamedly tatty. It is what it is. *****

Drink: My pint of Shipwrecked (Goachers) was a delight and the choice of cask ales available was truly refreshing. Curious Brew is what it is, but he loved it and Mrs SD said it was very decent wine. *****

Food: This is self-proclaimed ‘pub grub’ doing what it says on the tin. The bread was fresh, the roll was served hot, the leek and potato soup tasted good. It was good for pub grub. ***

Price: The soup and roll cost £7, the fish finger sandwich was £6.70 and my tuna and mayo sandwich 10p less at £6.60. A portion of chips is £3. ‘Unfortunately!’ the Apprentice bought the drinks for once so I can’t tell you the prices of those. ***

Staff: As quirky as the interior of their pub, I took to them immediately. Helpful, chatty and jocular, they’re clearly proud to work at this hidden gem and welcome all-comers accordingly. *****

The beer towels on the bar make it very clear which brewery is favoured here
The beer towels on the bar make it very clear which brewery is favoured here
Round 1 – Despite my efforts the SD Apprentice couldn’t be persuaded to go for a cask ale and he chose Curious Brew. I selected the aptly-named Goachers’ Shipwrecked and Mrs SD went for her usual.
Round 1 – Despite my efforts the SD Apprentice couldn’t be persuaded to go for a cask ale and he chose Curious Brew. I selected the aptly-named Goachers’ Shipwrecked and Mrs SD went for her usual.
The unisex toilet was well maintained and there was an occupied/vacant sign alongside the sliding door - it’s a bit of a tight squeeze
The unisex toilet was well maintained and there was an occupied/vacant sign alongside the sliding door - it’s a bit of a tight squeeze
The window in the gents took the form of a porthole but it had been covered by a paper plate. However, there were signs it had been pulled aside for someone to take a peek out.
The window in the gents took the form of a porthole but it had been covered by a paper plate. However, there were signs it had been pulled aside for someone to take a peek out.
This door to the pub’s private quarters is used as a notice board
This door to the pub’s private quarters is used as a notice board

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