Looking every inch a traditional boozer from the outside, the façade of the Jolly Farmer conceals a trendy, designer bar with pictures of animals dressed in fancy uniforms.

But the deception doesn’t end here – step through archways at the back of the bar and you’re into a conservatory which looks to have been transported directly from an OAP home.

I found myself in Manston for a Friday lunchtime and hoped to snaffle a snack as well as a decent pint, but wasn’t ready to join the silver surfers in the sun lounge, so took a stool at the bar.

Challenge one was getting served by a barmaid who had to duck and weave her way past the open door of the wine fridge to reach the pumps.

Having completed the obstacle course she poured an excellent pint of creamy-headed Brakspear Oxford Gold and passed me a menu. I said I wouldn’t need one as I’d just like a sandwich of some sort.

She explained this wasn’t possible as there weren’t any on the menu and I’d have to choose something from the starter selection.

After a bit of thought I went for a scotch egg and hoped it would live up to the £8 price tag.

There were two other guys at the bar, one munching a full roast dinner and one sinking several much-needed lunchtime pints. Another fellow did join us briefly but he was only in to carry out a fire inspection and soon pottered off with his clipboard.

The stripped floorboards, winged armchairs, tables made from barrels, trendy lightbulbs and logs neatly stacked in the fireplace might not have been what I was expecting, but they are all playing their part in creating a more up-market feel to this old boozer.

And, just in case you’re still in any doubt about the clientele sought here the gentle plinky, plinky lift music playing softly in the background will confirm it.

The was a ding-dong from the kitchen and the manageress, fighting off her sniffles, got up from her laptop and paperwork to deliver my scotch egg, complete with rapeseed mayo, no less.

The yolks were beautifully golden and well-centred in their tasty sausage shells, I’d have to say the food looked and tasted absolutely fantastic.

Is it worth the price tag, do you know what, with the wonderfully seasoned mayo, I reckon it was and, as the saying goes: ‘You get what you pay for’.

It feels as if the bar is a reception/waiting room for those wishing to dine and most of the older folks who came in went straight through the archway to the tables at the back.

The red leather sofas, the pictures and decorative logs are definitely here for show, a sort of window dressing for the gastro pub the Jolly Farmer wants to be.

However, a few workers did venture in at one point and, like Aaron at the bar, got stuck into the Amber Nectar, though at a shade under a fiver this Fosters is not cheap.

Whilst the logs are for effect and there certainly wasn’t a real fire, the place was incredibly warm, again perhaps it knows it lunchtime market and realises older folks prefer the heating cranked up.

Mind you, whatever the bar temperature might have been it was nothing compared to the sauna waiting to greet you in the gents.

Taking a swift comfort break will leave you sweating cobs and whilst I was at the urinal I felt compelled to open the window, inadvertently allowing myself another view of the conservatory.

Although they were switched off, there were two large TV screens, one on each side of the bar, leading me to think live football and rugby must be shown here from time to time and then at least it would have a different atmosphere.

There was also a modern electronic fruit machine but that was also switched off and there was no sign of darts, pool or a jukebox.

Overall I’d have to say my visit to the Jolly Farmer was pleasant enough even though it didn’t deliver quite what I was expecting but, unlike the swathes of pensioners who I’m sure are repeat visitors, I perhaps wouldn’t rush back.

It was only later in the day when I mentioned to a mate where I’d been and he said: “Isn’t that the place bought by the bloke who did Big Brother and his chef mate?”

All of a sudden the way the pub has been developed and the type of atmosphere being created all made a lot more sense.

The Jolly Farmer, 3 High Street, Manston, Ramsgate CT12 5BG

Decor: Well decorated and comfortable with red leather furniture, trendy lightbulbs and dressed up animal pictures, it feels more like a restaurant with a bar reception than a pub which serves food. ***

Drink: The 4% Brakspear Oxford Gold is a zesty, floral beer that slips down very easily. The Timothy Taylor’s Landlord was also a very well-kept pint. There is a good selection of drinks available so really no need to drink the Fosters guys! ****

Price: With a pint of Amber Nectar at £4.90 you’d be better off with a Fosters of the real ale world, as a Doom Bar was only £4.20. But the real question was whether the Scotch egg was worth £8 and I reckon it just about was. ***

Food: It wasn’t quite what I was after but the starter I selected turned out to be tasty, hot, perfectly seasoned and beautifully presented. If you going to do bar snacks, do them well. ****

Staff: As well presented and professional as the bar, the staff all performed well and did what was expected of them. ***

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