Coral gardens off Hurghada. Picture: Tim Nicholson

by Jamie Stephens

Usually the only fish I come across are on a plate or the tiny glass bowl in my niece's bedroom.

So I was somewhat taken aback to see hundreds of electro-coloured fish going about their daily business, seemingly unperturbed at the sight of a lanky Brit flailing uncontrollably and imbibing litres of seawater through a inadequately positioned snorkel.

Diving off a Red Sea reef taught me two things fairly quickly; Finding Nemo has nothing on the countless species on show in Egyptian seas; and drinking brine is liable to make you cough and gag uncontrollably. Which is not good when you're underwater.

The Red Sea is renowned for some of the best diving in the world with over 1000 species of fish and 150 different types of coral to get your teeth into (not literally).

The most famous underwater explorer of them all, Jacques Cousteau, was said to know his onions and maintained it was his favourite place to dive; the Sinai Penisula is a veritable playground for those blessed with a pair of flippers and the will to explore.

In the shallows, table reefs teaming with shoals of psychedelic sealife threaten to puncture the surface of the water, whilst vast yawning canyons harbouring huge coral forests welcome the braver diver.

Historically the area's also been a navigational nightmare, resulting in a number of jaw-dropping shipwrecks that have drawn scuba specialists the globe over.

Coral encrusted cargo of the SS Thistlegorm. Picture: Tim Nicholson

For example, the coast off Hurghada is the last resting place of the Thistlegorm - a World War II freighter sunk by a German bomber before it could deliver its cargo of military hardware, jeeps, tanks and motorcycles.

The sight of coral-encrusted rifles, boots, bikes and even train carriages offers one of the most eerie sights imaginable but, given my ineptitude with even the most basic of diving accessories, I figured marine archaeology was beyond me, so opted for the shoreline instead.

I'm not usually a beach person (given that I bore easily and burn even worse) so if, like me, you enjoy poking about, cross-referencing stuff in tourist guides then you're most definitely in the wrong neck of the woods. But that's missing the point when you visit the all-inclusives of Hurghada and nearby Sharm El Sheikh.

The name of the game here is RELAXATION. Everything is geared to sheer enjoyment and utter indulgence, be that dining in luxurious 5 star surroundings, partaking in all manner of watersports - gentle or otherwise - or just lazily being able to swim to the side of the bar to pick up a mojito.

Thirty years ago there was nothing in Sharm El Sheikh save a small fishing village and miles of sun-beaten rock.

Since then, dive tourism and those cottoning on to a cheap alternative to the Med has meant an explosion of building in a once unforgiving environment.

Little outposts of opulence hug hard desert bordered by some of the most crystal-clear, picture-perfect water you will ever clap eyes on.

Sure, once inside any of these sumptuously styled mini-villages you could forget you were even in Egypt, but who cares when they're that pretty.

Pretty is admittedly pretty hard to do when you're a 511-room hotel, but the Makahdi Palace pulls it off in some style.

Lazing on Giftun Island. Picture: Jamie Stephens

A more aptly-named hotel you could not hope to find as it is truly grandiose when lit up at night. Five different restaurants will also ensure you dine like a king (or queen).

In terms of menu, there's everything you could possibly want for. Although I did feel somewhat guilty about tucking into the local sea-life that I had so giddily been playing with earlier in the day.

Its sister hotel The Ghazala Gardens in Sharm El Sheikh is an altogether smaller affair but more than makes up for that with POSSIBLY THE BEST POOL EVER.

Okay call me small-minded if you like, but being able to do laps through different channels and under wooden walkways before finishing it off with the aforementioned cocktail ordered from the edge of the water gets my vote anytime.

If you do make it out of the water, winding side passages past fragrant flower beds, small Moorish accomodation blocks and a sun-trap with mini pool at every turn are key to breaking up the holiday camp feel so often encountered on all-inclusives.

The bustling neon of Naama Bay is just five minutes walk with all the shopping and nightlife you can sheikh a stick at, if lazing about becomes too tiring.

Slightly further afield and the Sinai Desert beckons those entrepid enough to brave a brain-juddering jeep safari.

Desert for me usually conjures images of Lawrence Of Arabia and rippling sand dunes but there is nothing of the type here - instead, the most stark beauty stretched out as far as you can see.

Biblical is the byword here with stray goat herds wandering the parched earth and cloaked men watching silently from the canopies of Bedouin camps. Our guide explains it has rained twice in the last eleven years - bad for them, great for holiday makers looking for year-round sunshine.

Indeed the only water to be seen is in the sugary mint tea the Bedouin offer us as we recline in their surprisingly well-appointed camp and take respite from the 35 degree heat.

Egypt has had a bad run in the face of recent terrorist atrocities and shark attacks - ironically the result of boat owners slinging dead chickens overboard to ensure a good show for excited camera-toting tourists.

But with so much resting on the massive influx of tourists, it's bouncing back in style with some of the most impressive hotels I've clapped eyes on, the best customer service I've encountered anywhere in the world and day excursions designed to cater to any age and any interest.

Whether it's jeep safaris across the desert, top notch cuisine or lazing beside immaculately landscaped swimming pools, the Red Sea is very much back open for business.

Jamie flew direct to Sharm El Sheikh from London Gatwick courtesy of Red Sea Holidays and stayed at the stayed at four-star Ghazala Gardens Hotel in Na'ama Bay, Sharm el Sheikh and the five-star Makadi Palace in Makadi Bay, Hurghada.

One week (7 nights) at Ghazala Gardens, for two adults sharing on an all inclusive basis, currently starts from £890pp from Gatwick.

The price includes flights, a 20kg luggage allowance, transfers and late check out. The same at five star Makadi Palace, currently starts from £739pp.

For those wanting to take children, Red Sea Holidays offer a guaranteed all-inclusive price of £399 for kids under 12.

Day trips and excursions can be booked in advance or from Red Sea reps at the hotel with one or two-day trips to Cairo and Luxor if pyramids are on your itineray.

As a guide price, the day snorkelling excursion and the jeep safari is priced at approximately £35 per person (including transport, guide, equipment and lunch).

A day-long diving excursion is priced from £35 including boat, two dives, tanks and weights (from £46 per person for an introductory dive).

Late deals are available. For details visit http://www.redseaholidays.co.uk or call them directly on 0845 026 5980